יום רביעי, 23 בספטמבר 2015

Arriving in Cambodia


Luggage and family in one tuktuk 
We arrived in Phnom Penh (PP), Cambodia, a couple of weeks ago. We went straight to Divon's house and before He and Channei could understand what had hit them, we declared ourselves squatters and moved them out.
Well this isn’t entirely true, but not far from it either. We arrived on Wednesday and they left for a few days to Singapore on Sunday. - How many of you could survive with a family of 5 squatters stuck in your house??

Channei came back a few days before Divon and she made the mistake of making us feel so at home that we stayed even longer than we'd initially planned.

So a bit about Phnom Penh and Cambodia:

2 monks walking outside the kings palace
Cambodia had a terrible civil war which lasted from the rise of the Khmer rouge in the early 70s up until the late 90's. During this time about a quarter of the population lost their lives. Some were murdered in the fights or in the deadly dungeons of the Khmer rouge, others died of disease due to the lack of medicine, because of the crazy ideals the Khmer rouge had. The Khmer rouge dreamed of regaining the power the Khmer empire once had and thought that Cambodia out to be self-sufficient. They also thought that all people should return to farming so all those in the city were murdered or kicked out. Anybody wealthy or educated was in great danger and all importing of goods was stopped. This resulted in lack of medication, food and energy => lots of dead people.

After the war, people returned to PP and just started to move into the empty houses – finders keepers. So today you have very bizarre divisions of houses in the capital. 
Another thing you notice, or may I say – the first thing you notice when arriving in Cambodia is that there is no law on the road. Now you may say that this is true for many countries – Greece, India, Italy, etc… But when I say no law, I mean NO LAW. Every vehicle on the road has an insignificant probability of going at any one of the 360 degrees. There is of course a greater probability that the vehicle will continue in its current direction, but as I said – it's not guaranteed. If the car before you is too slow you can choose between waiting patiently, overtaking in the opposite lane, going on to the pavement or doing a u-turn. All are almost equally probable.

As we heard more and more about Cambodia, I understood that the roads, were simply an example of the current situation of the country. This is a great place to visit in order to feel good about your own country, because this is really as bad as it gets. 

The garbage collector and his daughter
Here there is really no faith in the Government and as you start hearing about the country, you understand that any one who has any power uses it for his own good. The country doesn't pay any of its workers a salary that can support them, so the only reason to come to work in the public system is for the after work opportunities your job provides. This is true from the prime minister, through the judges, police and down to the garbage collectors (who have first choice of the garbage that is thrown out).

There are endless examples of little things that are unbelievable. 
To name a few:
1.  If you want to build on top of your house in Phnom Penh (the Capital), all you need is that none of your neighbors complain. There are no rules or guidelines as to what you need to do.
2.  If you have a company in Cambodia and you want to have a legal agreement with another company, chances are that in the agreement you will both state that in case of dispute you will go to the Singapore courts.
3.  There is no posting service in the country. Only private couriers.

I'm singing and dancing in the rain
But after that long introduction, Phnom Penh is a very nice Capital. Most of the buildings are no more that 3-5 stories high, this lets in the air and the light. The weather is humid and hot this time of year and there is usually an afternoon shower to break the heat. 
The people are exceptionally nice and go out of their way to help.  Prices are quite cheap, though unless you are in a branded shop all prices will be topped up for a tourist. There is a lovely river front to walk on. There are good restaurants, some parks, a king's palace, an interesting Museum, many markets and some malls.

The Museum
We tried the local 'do it yourself' soup. The ingredients are on the conveyor belt.

Look carefully at the food stand in the mall

The water front:
The river front
Checkout the air tank





We found many more activities for the girls:
Bowling, a 3D movie at the cinema, bumper cars, wall climbing and aerobics on the water front.

Who's prepared to go up these stairs?


We even visited Beit Chabad for first night of Sukot.

We found an amazing ice cream (blue pumpkin) that even has some cool sorbet (coconut, peanuts and all the standard fruit) flavors. 

But best of all, was having a house. It was great, after 2 months of staying at hotels to be in a house. And Divon and Channei's house is a wonderful place to be! Their hospitality was admirable (did I say that I could never survive my family as a host). They made us feel so welcome, the location is smack in the middle and we had a whole floor to ourselves. We could finally cook and my girls can cook! Every time Galia made a meal there was fighting on who cooks what… We had vegies in the oven and pasta, tuna salad and egg salad and most missed – a real Israeli salad with olive oil and lots of lemon. This was really great!



The Ceremony
On our last day in PP Channei invited us to join her family for a visit to their Pagoda. Channei explained that the Cambodian's religion is a mixture of Buddhism with the ancient spirits. So a lot of their festivals are left overs of the spirit world. This festival is to respect the dead. Channei's sister picked us up with a minivan at 7 am and the 12 of us set out: Channie's parents, her sister + 2 children, Channei and Divon and the 5 of us. After about 45 minutes drive (including 2 ferries) we arrived at the pagoda. There was a short ceremony, where a lot of presents (food, sweets, fruit and shawls) were given to the monks and the local congregation.
After that we continued to a nice spot for a picnic and rest.
- What a wonderful day!


The Pagoda

On the Mekong
Channei

Cow wash






























PP is actually the center of Cambodia. The way to travel Cambodia is like a star, having PP in the center. So PP will be used as a base in the coming weeks as we travel Cambodia.
Tomorrow we leave for Siem Reap to visit the heart of the Khmer Empire - 'Angkor Wat'.
Our stay in PP allowed us to have a routine. The girls could study, Galia and I could do more yoga, a bit of cooking... yes, we are ready to settle down for a while, but we will have to wait a little longer.

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